Olfactory Archaeology
Recreating 18th Century Perfumes: Historical Scent Reconstruction Techniques

Abstract: Step-by-step guide to reviving Marie Antoinette’s lost perfume using GC-MS analysis of 300-year-old fragrance residues.
The 2022 discovery of sealed perfume flacons in Versailles’ private archives allowed unprecedented access to pre-Revolutionary French perfumery. Our team employed:
1. Non-Invasive Sampling
- Raman spectroscopy identified 63 intact molecules through glass
- Micro-capillary extraction retrieved 0.2μL samples
2. Degradation Modeling
Developed AI algorithm accounting for:
- Terpene oxidation rates (25-38% loss over 2 centuries)
- Alcohol evaporation patterns (92% ethanol content reduced to 58%)
- pH-induced ester hydrolysis (15 key esters degraded)
3. Modern Reconstruction
Replicated using IFRA-compliant ingredients:
Original Component | Modern Substitute | Adjustment Ratio |
---|---|---|
Orris butter (1790s) | Alpha-Irone (Givaudan) | 1:0.87 |
Civet absolute | Civettone (Synarome) | 1:1.2 |
Rose de Mai concrete | Rose Oxide (Firmenich) | 1:0.92 |
Sensory Validation
Trained perfumers evaluated:
- Historical accuracy: 89% match to archival descriptions
- Wearability: 73% preferred modern version’s “softer animalic tones”