Olfactory Archaeology

Recreating 18th Century Perfumes: Historical Scent Reconstruction Techniques

Abstract: Step-by-step guide to reviving Marie Antoinette’s lost perfume using GC-MS analysis of 300-year-old fragrance residues.


The 2022 discovery of sealed perfume flacons in Versailles’ private archives allowed unprecedented access to pre-Revolutionary French perfumery. Our team employed:

1. Non-Invasive Sampling

  • Raman spectroscopy identified 63 intact molecules through glass
  • Micro-capillary extraction retrieved 0.2μL samples

2. Degradation Modeling
Developed AI algorithm accounting for:

  • Terpene oxidation rates (25-38% loss over 2 centuries)
  • Alcohol evaporation patterns (92% ethanol content reduced to 58%)
  • pH-induced ester hydrolysis (15 key esters degraded)

3. Modern Reconstruction
Replicated using IFRA-compliant ingredients:

Original Component Modern Substitute Adjustment Ratio
Orris butter (1790s) Alpha-Irone (Givaudan) 1:0.87
Civet absolute Civettone (Synarome) 1:1.2
Rose de Mai concrete Rose Oxide (Firmenich) 1:0.92

Sensory Validation
Trained perfumers evaluated:

  • Historical accuracy: 89% match to archival descriptions
  • Wearability: 73% preferred modern version’s “softer animalic tones”

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