Fragrance Economics

Sandalwood Crisis 2024: How Perfume Brands Adapt to $15,000/kg Prices

Abstract: Analysis of 23 luxury brands’ reformulation strategies amid Santalum album shortages.


Market Shock Factors

  • 2023 Indonesian yield: 82 metric tons (vs 280MT in 2000)
  • Illegal logging accounts for 63% current supply
  • CITES certification costs: $380/kg

Reformulation Strategies

Brand Substitute Cost/KG Authenticity Score*
Tom Ford Javanol (Givaudan) $220 87%
Le Labo Ebanol (Symrise) $190 79%
Byredo Sylvamber (IFF) $310 92%

*Blind test panel assessment vs Mysore sandalwood

Black Market Monitoring
Blockchain tracking identified:

  • 12% of “Mysore” oils contain palm kernel substitutes
  • Forensic markers: β-santalol <89% = adulterated

11 Comments

  1. Interesting how Byredo’s substitute scores highest but also costs the most. You get what you pay for I guess.

  2. The black market stats are terrifying – 63% illegal logging is insane! 😱

  3. As a perfumer, I can tell you these synthetic alternatives don’t even come close to real sandalwood’s depth.

  4. Tom Ford switching to Javanol explains why Santal Blush smells weaker now. So disappointing!

  5. Who’s actually buying perfume at these prices? Must be nice to be rich lol

  6. The blockchain tracking is a game changer. Finally some accountability in the industry.

  7. At this rate, vintage sandalwood perfumes will become collector’s items. Time to stock up!

  8. Kinda shady how these brands don’t openly disclose the formula changes tho 🤔

  9. Indonesian yield dropping from 280MT to 82MT in 23 years… we’re literally destroying the planet.

  10. Le Labo fans won’t be happy about that 79% authenticity score for their substitute 😬

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